My Build Log

Discuss Nava construction and related issues
  • C41 is listed in the Mid Tom section.
  • Data Jam wrote:Hi,

    not started building yet, and since i'm a total electronic novice, i'm building 2 stomp pedals first, thanks AonFluX for this idea that i picked up in an other thread!

    but i started to sort things and label things, going thru the build guide every now and then, and just saw in the on the handclap page C41 is not listed? or am i blind ? if i get there i don't want to just assume it's the same cap as the other 3.

    i will use this thread in the future for any problems or questions i may have so stay tuned =)

    cheers
    Nice to hear! And yeah, its better to do all the very useful mistakes on cheaper kits. Because doing the mistakes is really the best way to learn :) Glad to report I only did one mistake on the Nava so far - thanks to all the messed up pedal-kits I left in my trail 8-)
  • ah i see, even though C41 and also C40 visual are on the handclap/noise section, belong to the mid tom? i guess i got confused of the pictures because in the guide he builds parts on all sections and so on :oops:

    @Aonflux, owell, i'll see what messed up things i will leave in my trail :mrgreen:
  • I found it very useful to build the full IO board first and foremost (before the kick). And also the connectors and cables that link the 2 boards together, except the midi stuff.

    This way, I can connect the two boards and test the output of each instrument as I build them. drifter7508 commented on another thread how to do this.
    drifter7508 wrote:To test the sounds:
    One cable end attached to +5V, the other end you quickly "tap/touch" to the Trigger point.
    The IO board must be used and headphones or monitors connected to it.

    The rimshot voice must be reset "to ground" after a trig, else it won't sound again.
    Note that the trigger contact needs to be very very short or the sound will just be some kind of noisy held note.

    And finally the guide doesn't mention the on/off switch and uses component legs to short the contacts instead, so normally you would put the on/off switch (I attached mine with 2 short wires) in the top-left corner of the IO board.

    That's all I can share at the moment, from beginner to beginner ;)
  • hey beep, thanks for your input ! :)

    wasn't sure if i will test each instrument, so i started today with noise and BD, since BD is the first instrument i can do the IO board after and then test BD and go forward from there, and thats the plan... i would just do the whole IO board that i don't have to come back to it...

    and building the 2 stomp pedals first was great, both worked right away, but they were pretty easy to build, except for the first germanium diode, i broke it while bending the legs, didn't expect them to be so fragile :mrgreen:


    built the IO board today and the snare... bassdrum and snare are working yay :mrgreen: triggering with the cable works on the snare pretty well, the bassdrum sounds a bit weird when triggered that way, hope thats normal, or its my little crappy speaker i use for testing...
  • J14 on the IO board, which is connecting to the master section, does it have to be a cable like in the build guide, or can i just use 6 wires ?

    also im missing 1 100k, maybe more, if they are used after crash and ride, didn't check that, but im sure im missing at least one, will this one work?

    http://www.musikding.de/100k-carbon-fil ... tor-025W-5
    it's smaller but to me it looks the same, but thats not worth much ...

    or this http://www.conrad.ch/ce/de/product/1417 ... t?ref=list
  • done, had to unsolder a 100k from my x0x to continue working :\ so im still interested about the resistors from my last post. i was also missing one 1.2k, but had a 1k left so i took that ...
    everything seems to be working...
    except noisy mainout, but this isn't unusual i guess, did not yet try the diode and resistor "mod" or remove the 2 22k... and LEDs interference on mainout, every blink is a noise :\ (non shielded cables)

    some instruments are louder than others, hi tom is pretty loud, also crash and ride, i noticed quite a lot of the potentiometers have a lot of ohm deviation, i guess that could be the problem?
    also if a crash step is set, and non hihat step, hihat volume @100% and crash volume @0% i can hear the crash very quiet... any guesses ?

    can anybody recommend anything to clean all the flux from the pcb? if read of some sort of alcohol but i would have no idea where to obtain that without a hassle... is this just 100% alcohol ? does it matter if it has some sort of additive ?

    is this worth anything ? http://www.conrad.ch/ce/de/product/0552 ... archDetail
    or this ? http://www.conrad.ch/ce/de/product/0559 ... l?ref=list

    owell im very happy after a 2 stomp pedal warm up to finished the nava =D

    edit: oh yes, the handclap calibration, i'm using the soundcard scope, and have no idea how to set the things in the software so i see it how i supposed to see it. if anyone has a screenshot of the scope software to have a starting point, that would be very helpful.
  • With regards to removing flux, first check your solder's data sheet to see the kind of flux. If it's RMA ('rosin mildly activated'), the manufacturer may suggest the flux is ok to remain on the PCB following soldering. If your solder has an RA type flux ('rosin activated') then you'll almost certainly need to clean the flux residue away since it can be corrosive.

    I recently used this product on my Yocto build, and it was noticeably better than alcohol: http://uk.farnell.com/servisol/10001900 ... dp/3821470. Incidentally if you do go with alcohol, the type you need is called IPA - short for isopropyl alcohol. It's good to keep some to hand as it's good at removing tarnish from metals. It is also what most people use to clean away flux from PCB's - I used to till I discovered the can I linked to above!! Use suitable precautions - the fumes can make you feel a bit weird, and it's highly flammable.

    Good luck!
  • This will work to remove flux:
    http://www.conrad.ch/ce/de/product/0559 ... l?ref=list
    You can use denatured alcohol but it's not quite the same. Flux remover has acetone in it too so it removes everything. Alcohol will leave a little residue. FYI be careful not to get it inside pots. They might be pre-lubricated and this stuff will wash it out. You might want to spray it outdoors. It stinks!

    I used shielded cables for master and there is still slight bleed from led steps. You have to have all pots turned down to hear it though. I am having too much fun to worry about it!