I've completed my build and have resoldered any bits that looked suspect. All 16 buttons light up. When I go to initialize, nothing happens. I've tried the dial at different points thinking that maybe I had the knob on incorrectly.
I'm going to look at the schematic and start testing values with my meter. I have an oscilloscope, but I only recently got it, and I don't really know where to start, although I was able to get as far as getting the right reading on my TM1 and TM2 adjustments.
How can I test my ATmega to make sure it is ok? What else would you test? I'm going to look around the sequencer bit for now but any help would be appreciated. thanks!
Build completed EEPROM initialize not doing anything
So far I have reflowed all of my solder joints in the master and sequencer section including the switches. I've tested to see if the ATmega is getting power, it is getting about 5v, along with each of the HC165Ns.
I wonder if my ATmega was not flashed, or if I have somehow shorted it...?
Does anyone know if it is possible to check the ATmega using my computer and its serial port?
I wonder if my ATmega was not flashed, or if I have somehow shorted it...?
Does anyone know if it is possible to check the ATmega using my computer and its serial port?
hi,
have you set the upper function switch to the correct position?
it's the fifth position when you turn the switch from 12 o'clock to the left.
btw: the grayhill switches have a flat side. this flat points to 6 o'clock! (the roundness points to 12 o'clock)
it's necessary that the machine is completely switched OFF before you try to initialize.
maybe you'll need a helping hand, because you have to press and hold start and shift buttons while switching on the Yocto.
best,
Sub
have you set the upper function switch to the correct position?
it's the fifth position when you turn the switch from 12 o'clock to the left.
btw: the grayhill switches have a flat side. this flat points to 6 o'clock! (the roundness points to 12 o'clock)
it's necessary that the machine is completely switched OFF before you try to initialize.
maybe you'll need a helping hand, because you have to press and hold start and shift buttons while switching on the Yocto.
best,
Sub
Bumping this thread to see if I can get any additional feedback before getting a dust cover for this thing.
No offense to your soldering skills, but looking at the pictures, I see plenty of leads not cut flush to the solder blobs. Some of them seem to be left 2-3mm above. On a board like this it is a guarantee for failure as a short is imminent. Specially as the board is still bare and being handled and flipped all the time.
Get a pair of flush wire cutters and clean up your board. No guarantee, but it would be the first thing to do to rule out errors.
Get a pair of flush wire cutters and clean up your board. No guarantee, but it would be the first thing to do to rule out errors.
Your board looks like a real mess on the pictures with lots of possible short outs. Clean it properly! I can see a lot of "bridges" making shorts.
Hey guys, thanks for the feedback. I've been building kits for about two years but nothing this complex. With that being said, I've never cleaned flux from a board (!) is that weird? I'm realizing now that is a skill that I need to work on.
So, my question is... I've completed these solder joints at least two months ago. Has the flux been on the board too long to effectively clean off?
I ask because I've used a bit of everything recommended - 99% isopropyl alcohol, denatured alcohol, and I've tested acetone on a portion of the board (being careful because I know acetone is bad for plastics like some components. So, the result is, I see where the chemical is thinning the flux... as the cleaner evaporates, it leaves an outline, which I'm assuming is the flux spreading out. I've scrubbed with a toothbrush, a clipped paint brush, cotton swab sticks, and simply padding the fluid with a paper towel before it starts evaporating... It is pretty tough to get it clean "looking". It has left behind a streaky residue. Is this normal?
So, my question is... I've completed these solder joints at least two months ago. Has the flux been on the board too long to effectively clean off?
I ask because I've used a bit of everything recommended - 99% isopropyl alcohol, denatured alcohol, and I've tested acetone on a portion of the board (being careful because I know acetone is bad for plastics like some components. So, the result is, I see where the chemical is thinning the flux... as the cleaner evaporates, it leaves an outline, which I'm assuming is the flux spreading out. I've scrubbed with a toothbrush, a clipped paint brush, cotton swab sticks, and simply padding the fluid with a paper towel before it starts evaporating... It is pretty tough to get it clean "looking". It has left behind a streaky residue. Is this normal?
Would it be safe to rinse the board in water or solvent? I've read that is what some people do, but I'm not sure that would be a good idea, since I'm already working with damaged goods.
Hi,
With cleaning up, both drifter7508 and I meant that you should cut your component leads more close to the board. On the pictures I see a lot of long ends and by handling the board you might actually have shorted things out.
So get a flush wire cutter like this: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/cable-cutters/1585726/ and "clean" up your board.
In regards to flux removal, after you've cleaned it up with isopropanol, or Kontakt PCB cleaner http://www.kontaktchemie.com/KOC/KOCpro ... TAKT%20PCC, you can get rid of the streaks with demineralized water and a cloth.
Cleaning the flux is mainly for the looks. If you have used an electronics rosin core solder, it normally doesn't do any harm. (except for the looks)
With cleaning up, both drifter7508 and I meant that you should cut your component leads more close to the board. On the pictures I see a lot of long ends and by handling the board you might actually have shorted things out.
So get a flush wire cutter like this: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/cable-cutters/1585726/ and "clean" up your board.
In regards to flux removal, after you've cleaned it up with isopropanol, or Kontakt PCB cleaner http://www.kontaktchemie.com/KOC/KOCpro ... TAKT%20PCC, you can get rid of the streaks with demineralized water and a cloth.
Cleaning the flux is mainly for the looks. If you have used an electronics rosin core solder, it normally doesn't do any harm. (except for the looks)