Regarding Calibration and repairs

Discuss Yocto construction and related issues
  • Be sure to follow the build guide correctly, check your solder joints and you can easily end up with a fully working Yocto on the first time you power it on.

    I built 5 ones as my almost first DIY project and the issues I had (except a defect IC easily resolvable in looking at the forum) were all findable in carefully looking at the board and a bit of thinking. In fact that was always bad or forgotten solder joints.

    You don't finally absolutely need any knowledges because in last resort you can re check if you well put each part at the right place with the build guide or even better with the PCB file.
  • gihaume wrote:Be sure to follow the build guide correctly, check your solder joints and you can easily end up with a fully working Yocto on the first time you power it on.

    I built 5 ones as my almost first DIY project and the issues I had (except a defect IC easily resolvable in looking at the forum) were all findable in carefully looking at the board and a bit of thinking. In fact that was always bad or forgotten solder joints.

    You don't finally absolutely need any knowledges because in last resort you can re check if you well put each part at the right place with the build guide or even better with the PCB file.
    Hello! Thanks for the reply.
    I am delighted to announce that the yocto is full functional; though some tweaking/calibration is needed to get the sounds closer to the OG/what i want it to sound like. Is there a list of what each trip pot does on the unit so I can attempt the calibration w/o guessing which does what? Alternatively a proper guide to sound calibration for the unit would be good too.
    My issues are the following:
    Clap - is a pinch too long
    Cowbell - a bit low in pitch
    Cymbal - needs proper calibration. The digital oscilloscope I used to try to tune the period of the two trims was unreliable. I used a Rigol ds1102e with no proper instruction regarding getting the best reading from the oscilloscope. The period measurement on the display was sporadically changing.
    Rest of the unit seems pretty damn close to what it should.
    Great DIY I must say!
    Any input is appreciated
    ~
    J
  • Calibration is in the building manual.. how did you build the unit ? :?

    For the oscilloscope, you can use the software "Scope". There is a frequency counter feature in it, you can use it to tune the cowbell/cymbal oscillators.
  • gihaume wrote:Calibration is in the building manual.. how did you build the unit ? :?

    For the oscilloscope, you can use the software "Scope". There is a frequency counter feature in it, you can use it to tune the cowbell/cymbal oscillators.
    Built off the site. No section on calibrating the sounds apart from the period portion of the cymbal. I missed it? I have a user manual though it doesn't have that section. Mind linking me to what you're talking about?
    Should the Roll be louder than the un accented sequenced hit?
  • Also noticed roll on snare seems to completely change in character on fastest speed setting. Sound becomes lacking in body and transient
  • The building manual: http://www.e-licktronic.com/en/content/ ... one-tr-808

    Cowbell/cymbal tuning at the end of this page: http://www.e-licktronic.com/en/content/34-cymbal

    Tuning values are in milliseconds, so if you use a frequency counter which read in hertz like the Scope's one, you have to convert them.
  • gihaume wrote:The building manual: http://www.e-licktronic.com/en/content/ ... one-tr-808

    Cowbell/cymbal tuning at the end of this page: http://www.e-licktronic.com/en/content/34-cymbal

    Tuning values are in milliseconds, so if you use a frequency counter which read in hertz like the Scope's one, you have to convert them.
    So there is no list for the functions of the other trims....
    Is the roll on the sn supposed to sound different from the sequenced hit?
  • Yes there is the trimmer in the noise section for which you need a voltmeter able to read precise AC voltages, this affect the noise on the snare drum and hand clap (and a bit the toms).

    The trimmer for the hand clap ("clap offset") has to be set by ears or with visual feedback of the waveforms in comparing the one showed in the TR-808 service manual.

    About the roll, I have no idea.
  • gihaume wrote:Yes there is the trimmer in the noise section for which you need a voltmeter able to read precise AC voltages, this affect the noise on the snare drum and hand clap (and a bit the toms).

    The trimmer for the hand clap ("clap offset") has to be set by ears or with visual feedback of the waveforms in comparing the one showed in the TR-808 service manual.

    About the roll, I have no idea.
    ok thanks for the info. I will try this tomorrow and report back on progress.