Maybe try to upload high res. pictures over here, i can't zoom in on them proper as they start to blur.
What i notice on the pics with IC2 and IC7 on it, it looks like some of the resistors around them are not soldered at all
or soldered very poor. If that's over the whole board you'll probably encounter more problems i'm afraid...

Thanks! I can't upload them to this board. I will upload them somewhere else where i can upload them all in once.

And i checked the soldering you mentioned. They als soldered from the other side. If i'm correct every hole is a metal tube so if they are soldered at one side they'll be connected on the this side too. But i could be dead wrong.

I'm gonna check every connection on the board and make sure all the solder is also on this side of the board. Starting with the sequencer. Let's see if i can get that one working first!

Thanks again!

And i checked the soldering you mentioned. They als soldered from the other side. If i'm correct every hole is a metal tube so if they are soldered at one side they'll be connected on the this side too. But i could be dead wrong.

You're right about that, this is a double sided PCB indeed but it would have been better to apply a little more solder to make a solid joint.
If you solder this the right way... the solder should pull up a little on the other (component) side making a concaved joint or at least fill that tube/hole up.

Do you use lead-free solder btw or just regular?

ikke wrote:

And i checked the soldering you mentioned. They als soldered from the other side. If i'm correct every hole is a metal tube so if they are soldered at one side they'll be connected on the this side too. But i could be dead wrong.

You're right about that, this is a double sided PCB indeed but it would have been better to apply a little more solder to make a solid joint.
If you solder this the right way... the solder should pull up a little on the other (component) side making a concaved joint or at least fill that tube/hole up.

Do you use lead-free solder btw or just regular?

Thanks! Regular

Cool, lead-free sucks big time!

Thanks! I've retouched all the soldering.

Also i made a better pictures page with high res pictures!

http://extrazoom.com/gallery/yocto.html

But i've found c18 the polarity to be reversed. I reversed that but no luck. Could it be it has been destroyed and i need to get a new one?

But i've found c18 the polarity to be reversed. I reversed that but no luck. Could it be it has been destroyed and i need to get a new one?

The electrolytic capacitors will damage when connected the wrong way. Not sure if it broke immediately, usually they pop open at
the top when you do something seriously wrong.
I think you'll be okay but replacing it would be better and that's what I would do.


Thanks a lot for the high res pictures, these are a lot better!

ikke wrote:

But i've found c18 the polarity to be reversed. I reversed that but no luck. Could it be it has been destroyed and i need to get a new one?

The electrolytic capacitors will damage when connected the wrong way. Not sure if it broke immediately, usually they pop open at
the top when you do something seriously wrong.
I think you'll be okay but replacing it would be better and that's what I would do.


Thanks a lot for the high res pictures, these are a lot better!

Thanks! I have to order parts at a webshop. There is no shop around where i can get these parts quick.

It didn't pop open. I know how that looks. But i want to replace it for sure.

Thing is I think i need to replace more parts. And i have no idea where to start.

I know i want IC holders for all the ic's of the sequencer. I've been so stupid to solder them like the building pages told me. And i need to replace the IC's too

Also my atmel could be fried too. Or the small IC with 8 pins ( which is in IC holder)

What do you think could be fried when i changed the polarity of c18? Or can i test them?

Don't stress to begin with and take your time!
I would leave the IC's how they are and only desolder them if you're sure that they're damaged because
damaging the boards (lifting pads or traces) is easily done even by the more/most experienced DIYer...
Ordering parts is a pity so just order everything you need in one time but ordering parts on a regular base is
quite common in the DIY scene to be honest.

There are several ways to test an eletrolytic capacitor but it's better to do a search on the net so
it becomes more clear for you to understand ''how to'' in your own language.

I'm curious if your 5 Volt rail is still stabile and if the IC's in the sequencer still get 5Volt?
Looking at the pics... I would give the 165's and 595's a better inspection judging the solder joints.