Kacper Case Standoff Mounts Broken

Discuss Nava construction and related issues
  • Same issue here with a Yocto case
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  • Hi,

    Glueing, I could see maybe done with two component epoxy and then maybe the metal version. But I doubt it will last.
    Welding, whether steel or aluminium will destroy your front panel silkscreen.

    Leaving indeed, standoffs with screw though the front. If you're lucky the screws protrude at places where there is no text.

    All in all, this sucks and I would be severely pissed off. Seems like you guys did not have a lot of luck with these Kacper cases. If you received it in the end...

    Good luck.
  • jeroenbvo wrote:Hi,

    Glueing, I could see maybe done with two component epoxy and then maybe the metal version. But I doubt it will last.
    Welding, whether steel or aluminium will destroy your front panel silkscreen.

    Leaving indeed, standoffs with screw though the front. If you're lucky the screws protrude at places where there is no text.

    All in all, this sucks and I would be severely pissed off. Seems like you guys did not have a lot of luck with these Kacper cases. If you received it in the end...

    Good luck.
    Yeah, I was hoping someone else had a better fix as I suspected other folks had this problem.
    Tried hot glue (so it had some give) and that didn't hold at all. I currently have a hacked up piece of plastic braced underneath the circuit board which is working as a temporary fix but not something I want to rely on long term.

    I guess I will keep an eye open for a black erica case (if I am going to pay twice I may as well have something I like the look of) otherwise I guess I will drill the front. Pretty disappointing bc this is clearly a flaw in the case design / fabrication.
  • How about a slow curing 2-component epoxy? Reichelt used to sell JB Weld, you should be able to use Plastic Padding chemical metal, or whatever it’s sold as locally (Pattex Epoxy, Araldite, Permabond). It was used to glue standoffs for MIDIBox panels back in the day.
    Last edited by Jojjelito on Jun 7th, '20, 15:51, edited 1 time in total.
  • Jojjelito wrote:How about a slow curing 2-component epoxy? Reichelt usel to sell JB Weld, you should be able to use Plastic Padding chemical metal, or whatever it’s sold as locally (Pattex Epoxy, Araldite, Permabond). It was used to glue standoffs for MIDIBox panels back in the day.
    Thanks for the tip.
    I need to look, but I think I remember that’s how they were initially attached so I’m fearful it’s not enough. Will open back up and check. I’m sure the issue is pressing the buttons puts pressure on the board - seems like they should be attached more securely.
  • Jojjelito wrote:How about a slow curing 2-component epoxy? Reichelt usel to sell JB Weld, you should be able to use Plastic Padding chemical metal, or whatever it’s sold as locally (Pattex Epoxy, Araldite, Permabond). It was used to glue standoffs for MIDIBox panels back in the day.
    Thanks for the tip.
    I need to look, but I think I remember that’s how they were initially attached so I’m fearful it’s not enough. Will open back up and check. I’m sure the issue is pressing the buttons puts pressure on the board - seems like they should be attached more securely.