New build - Two bugs to fix

Discuss Nava construction and related issues
  • The clap will be the AN6912 - A couple of topics down Luke has shared a direct replacement otherwise Cricklewood Electronics or Little Diode have some originals.

    The click bit you're hearing from the kick will most probably be the noise Attack part, presuming you have doubled checked your parts and the orientation the most likely suspect will be one of the M5128L. If you have used sockets you can try swapping out one at a time from a known working instrument starting with IC12 then IC13. IC11 should be working.
  • serum114 wrote:The clap will be the AN6912 - A couple of topics down Luke has shared a direct replacement otherwise Cricklewood Electronics or Little Diode have some originals.

    The click bit you're hearing from the kick will most probably be the noise Attack part, presuming you have doubled checked your parts and the orientation the most likely suspect will be one of the M5128L. If you have used sockets you can try swapping out one at a time from a known working instrument starting with IC12 then IC13. IC11 should be working.
    Thanks for this. Yeah LM339 is a drop-in, I'll give it a shot.

    Like i said I hear a very short kick. Not really a "click", just a really wimpy puny kick. I can kind of hear something in the attack, and the pitch does kind of work. I'll swap those two ICs and see what's going on.

    Thanks!
  • serum114 wrote:The clap will be the AN6912 - A couple of topics down Luke has shared a direct replacement otherwise Cricklewood Electronics or Little Diode have some originals.

    The click bit you're hearing from the kick will most probably be the noise Attack part, presuming you have doubled checked your parts and the orientation the most likely suspect will be one of the M5128L. If you have used sockets you can try swapping out one at a time from a known working instrument starting with IC12 then IC13. IC11 should be working.
    Swapped IC112 and IC113, no dice. Very weird. Don't have a schematic handy so I'm kind of shooting blind. I even blindly swapped all the transistors in the circuit. No dice.

    The envelopes are just really really short:

    Here's a scope shot @ the envelope: https://i.imgur.com/z9nTBlG.jpg

    Swapped the clap AN6912 with LM339, works perfectly :) Just need to fix this pesky kick.

    Any other ideas?

    Thanks again
  • E-lick have the schematics on the webpage but this is maybe A better place for understanding the circuits http://www.network-909.de/circuit.htm

    Have you tried swapping IC 11?
  • serum114 wrote:E-lick have the schematics on the webpage but this is maybe A better place for understanding the circuits http://www.network-909.de/circuit.htm

    Have you tried swapping IC 11?
    I fixed it once I got a hold of the schematic. R50 was 47k, I used 470k. Oops! Was hard to see when I initially went over the components to check.

    Nava is 100% working, just need to fix the hot/distorted mix out and she's good to go :)
  • Turn the Nava to 12 o'clock ;) the instruments have a high vpp causing the master to overdrive at higher volumes.
  • serum114 wrote:Turn the Nava to 12 o'clock ;) the instruments have a high vpp causing the master to overdrive at higher volumes.
    Cool thanks. Last question. Seems like the ride/crash are being "choked" by the hi hats. Is that a firmware setting?

    EDIT: Nevermind, I'm an idiot. Thought I had Trimmer 2 at +5v and it wasn't even close :) Nava is 100% working.
  • Conjure wrote:
    serum114 wrote:Turn the Nava to 12 o'clock ;) the instruments have a high vpp causing the master to overdrive at higher volumes.
    Cool thanks. Last question. Seems like the ride/crash are being "choked" by the hi hats. Is that a firmware setting?

    EDIT: Nevermind, I'm an idiot. Thought I had Trimmer 2 at +5v and it wasn't even close :) Nava is 100% working.
    Grrr, nope I lied. Last remaining bug is that the Start button acts like it's always pressed. When I start the machine, the pattern starts immediately. When I start it while just holding Stop/Cont, it acts as if I'm also holding Start and asks if I want to init the EEPROM. The LED for that switch works fine.

    It's S17, I'll take a look around the schematic. Grrrrrr.

    EDIT: Sorted. Cold joint around the socket on IC104.

    Annnnnd DONE.