v1.1/v1.2/mux rabbit hole
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That said, however, i sold dozens of x0xb0x USB chips without problems and yet it is smaller. I also managed to solder; the tiny components of Jasper's CV / gate midi board; on the other hand at home, mux SH board it does not work properly. The question I'm going to ask E-licktronic is simple, if i reboot the eeprom is it going to work right? Is it mandatory to reboot the eeprom when you go no mux SH --> to mux SH board? the boring thing is that i would lose all my patterns ...
In the end i welded 6 kits muxx SH board, to get 2 kits that work completely. These 2 have no difference with others, i did not make mistakes, only the spirit woodoo knows why these 2 are OK.
What software version?
024 and 026.
Did anybody ever figure out what's going on with the mux? Is there a surefire way to get the accents working? My Nava works fine without the mux boards installed (no accent of course) but with the mux boards, decay is way too short for hihat/ride/crash and the clap is way too hot, with constant "reverb" noise (after replacing the comparator twice).
surefire way is skip the e-licktronic smd mux boards and make your own mux boards using prototype pcbs and through-hole components (or design and manufacture your own through-hole mux pcbs...)
that's what i did with my 2nd nava after kinda ruining my 2nd set of e-licktronic mux boards trying to get them to work. the 1st set worked fine.
despite some builders' confidence about doing the smd soldering with no mistakes, i do think that's where the problem is. i've done smd soldering with no problems before, but i hadn't much experience with smd caps and resistors. i don't think there's any problem with the e-licktronic mux boards, they really are just a little bit tricky to solder well. i'm not sure how else you'd explain random different problems between builders. i checked and rechecked the continuity of the circuit while trying to build my 2nd pair. the pads are fine, the traces are fine, and the bom is fine.
that's what i did with my 2nd nava after kinda ruining my 2nd set of e-licktronic mux boards trying to get them to work. the 1st set worked fine.
despite some builders' confidence about doing the smd soldering with no mistakes, i do think that's where the problem is. i've done smd soldering with no problems before, but i hadn't much experience with smd caps and resistors. i don't think there's any problem with the e-licktronic mux boards, they really are just a little bit tricky to solder well. i'm not sure how else you'd explain random different problems between builders. i checked and rechecked the continuity of the circuit while trying to build my 2nd pair. the pads are fine, the traces are fine, and the bom is fine.
same problem, decay of the open hat is way too short.
Does anybody manage to solve this?
Does anybody manage to solve this?
Ok, i found the solution:
i put 6.8 nF condo in parralel to C6 on IC111(to rise the width of the accent i think), and it increases enough the length of the OP HAT.
For the kick you can do the same on C6 on IC114.
i put 6.8 nF condo in parralel to C6 on IC111(to rise the width of the accent i think), and it increases enough the length of the OP HAT.
For the kick you can do the same on C6 on IC114.