No sound coming from Cymbal Section

Discuss Yocto construction and related issues
  • Anyone? Im at a loss here.
  • flatcable broken?
    Get the latest unofficial Yocto V1 firmware here.
    Be sure to check the revised manual.
    Leave your comments in this thread.
  • rv0 wrote:flatcable broken?
    It doesn't appear to have any dry solder points on the boards; but Ill try to desolder and re-solder another new one to rule that out. Thanks for the advice Ill let you know what happens!
  • Flatcable was not the issue. I also spoke to Vincent briefly who advised me to check the U3 and U6 at pin 1 and 7 as well as q19 with my oscilloscope. All these have a waveform present and pulse with the trigger of the voice, but no noise is output; but I don't have a working cymbal section to cross reference so Im not sure if they look as they should. Im so close to completing this project and it being used in the studio but its just this one voice causing problems! Would really appreciate any advice or suggestions anyone can give, Im at a loss as to what else to try. Thanks so much to everyone.
  • In DIY the first step to making things work corectly is measure everything when you put it in. Use a printed copy of the instructions and cross every part off as you place it and solder etc..

    I would recomend that you check every part from the parts list when you have a cool relaxed head. Think of it as a puzzle or game and not a time to be frustrated.

    Once that is set, look at the original 808 service manual and the yocto schematics.

    On the original, there is spacific measurements via a scope or DMM that are marked out. Make sure those measure up. Trace the signals across the device untill you hit the output .
  • I have the exact same problem, not been through checking the trimsettings with a scope, since I don't have one and need to borrow it, but it seem to me that those trim settings are just for getting the right sound, so at the worst case scenario it should sound like crap, but no, no output whatsoever on the master or separate cymbal output???
    How did you fix your problem?
  • I actually found out that my cymbal does work when my pcb isn't assembled, so it looks like there is something wrong with the pcb itself and one of the traces. When I bend the pcb slightly the cymbal works again for some time, I start tapping some points on the pcb near the cymbal section and the sound is gone again.
    I resoldered all soldering points, so that can't be it, and since both the master and the separate output of the cymbal don't work at the same time, it looks like the trigger isn't arriving at the cymbal section for some reason.

    Looking at the schematic of the cymbal, it says the triggerpoint is around R15* and Q6* but I have no idea what to measure where in order to determine where the problem lies??? Any help would be appreciated, if there is an error in the pcb somewhere, I might solve it using a link between 2 components. It's hard to measure also because the cymbal works most of the time until I build it back into the case again...
  • DJJ wrote:I actually found out that my cymbal does work when my pcb isn't assembled, so it looks like there is something wrong with the pcb itself and one of the traces. When I bend the pcb slightly the cymbal works again for some time, I start tapping some points on the pcb near the cymbal section and the sound is gone again.
    I resoldered all soldering points, so that can't be it, and since both the master and the separate output of the cymbal don't work at the same time, it looks like the trigger isn't arriving at the cymbal section for some reason.

    Looking at the schematic of the cymbal, it says the triggerpoint is around R15* and Q6* but I have no idea what to measure where in order to determine where the problem lies??? Any help would be appreciated, if there is an error in the pcb somewhere, I might solve it using a link between 2 components. It's hard to measure also because the cymbal works most of the time until I build it back into the case again...
    Sounds painful, sorry to hear :-(

    You could try hooking up a DMM with hook clips (http://img.banggood.com/thumb/water/upl ... 3873/1.jpg) between two component legs and then start bending the PCB and listen when the signal cuts.
  • I had this same issue and ended up putting pins on the IO and main PCB where the brittle ribbon cables formerly connected the two boards. I now run high quality jumpers between the pin arrays, and all of my disappearing instrument problems are gone.