Build tips

Discuss Yocto construction and related issues
  • I used precision sockets for all the ICs, including the BA6110. Also, I noticed it is best to remove the nut from the two rotary switches, since they are too high.

    As pointed out in a few other posts, take your time, be organized and systematic, and don't try to cut corners or make the work easier. It took me 4 weeks, including sorting all the components, to finish the soldering. I sorted 2 sections a day, and soldered one section a day, or until I felt my concentration was fading. I made some mistakes along the way, mostly a few resistors that were in the wrong place, but since all the sections were sorted, these mistakes showed up as I was working on them. In the end I had only soldered one IC socket the wrong way in the sequencer section, so the IC was in the wrong way as well. Popped it out, put it back in the right way, and everything worked fine.

    And of course, use decent tools. I bought a DMM and a USB oscilloscope for this project, as well as eutectic solder. These are good long term investments if you plan on doing more electronic work/DIY kits/old analog machine maintenance.
    Last edited by ElSchtroumpf on Aug 1st, '14, 18:15, edited 1 time in total.
  • Great tips so far. This is a daunting project to assemble and there are lots of areas where you can make mistakes, but there are a few things you can do to catch them as you go. As suggested, buy IC sockets for all the IC's. There are 19 = 8 pin sockets, 3 = 14 pin sockets, 7 = 16 pin sockets. You can buy these dirt cheap on ebay from Chinese sellers. Don't buy them from Mouser they are way too expensive there.

    Work on one sound section at a time. I like to place all caps in first. Place all the caps without soldering them in. If you place a part where it should not go, you will discover that you made a mistake when you get to the parts that is supposed to go in there, and you can swap out with the correct one. After you have finished placing all the caps you can solder them in. When you finish you can cut all the leads off. Next move onto the transistors, then resistors.

    I like to use organic lead solder. I like it because after you are done soldering you can wash off the acid based flux with warm soapy water and a plastic scrub brush. Use the brush on the bottom side only! The component side can just be washed off gently with a soft paint brush or just with water. After that rinse the entire board with filtered water so there is no mineral residue from the tap water. Dry it out by placing it in the sun for a little while. Solder in the caps, transistors, and resistors first, then wash the board.

    Only use organic solder on, caps, transistors, resistors, and diodes. I also use it on Electro caps, because they are sealed with a rubber grommet at the bottom, but if washing them makes you nervous, you can place them last and use regular non washable rosin solder on them. Use regular rosin based lead solder on all other parts that cannot get wet like the sockets, pots, switches, trimmers, jacks, and wires. Don't get IC's wet either. These are the parts that should be placed last. This way you will end up with a set of boards that look nice and clean. Make sure the board is dry before soldering anything in again.

    I don't like lead free solder because it requires higher temps and it's harder to work with. I like to work on one or two drum sounds per day if I can. So far it is taking a lot longer than I expected to build this so don't rush.

    Ok that's it for now. If I come up with other tips I will write them down.
  • synthdood wrote:As suggested, buy IC sockets for all the IC's. There are 19 = 8 pin sockets, 3 = 14 pin sockets, 7 = 16 pin sockets. You can buy these dirt cheap on ebay from Chinese sellers. Don't buy them from Mouser they are way too expensive there.
    I feel obliged to comment on this.

    although IC feet are recommend by a lot of people, and thus common in the DIY scene, keep in mind that IC feet greatly reduce the reliability of the device. Especially when the device is transported a lot for live usage;.. IC's may just pop out
    The cheap kind of sockets are _cheap_ and prone to breaking easily.
    A lot of old computers (e.g. Apple IIe) have their RAM ic's soldered directly to the main board. there's a good reason for that

    My advice for anyone who wants to build a really reliable unit: buy professional IC sockets for the CPU and Eeprom. (round machined pin sockets). Solder all other IC's direct to board (but triple check orientation)
    Get the latest unofficial Yocto V1 firmware here.
    Be sure to check the revised manual.
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