e-licktronic Forum

FactoryDefault

It's a hack, but you can. Basically Midi Sync and Dinsync are very similar if you ignore that one is digital and other is analogue. How the Yocto handles them internally also adds up to almost the same thing. Not sure which boxes can do it for you, I've only experimented with DIY solutions Interest...

FactoryDefault

I can confirm that the Yocto will swing when fed dinsync/sync24 with swing.
You can’t add swing to midi sync though can you? If so I would love to know how!

FactoryDefault

I just spent an hour playing with my yocto1 running 1.2b.
The roll function is SOOO GOOD!

I really want to thank everyone who has contributed so far.
I will try to do my part by testing features and reporting back when I can.

FactoryDefault

In my case especially the SD produces a lot of the noticeable noise. Example: I just turn on the NAVA and plug in two cables to the mix out. All the volume pots of the instruments are at minimum. There is some noise, but at very low level. When I turn up the volume pot of the SD the noice get's sig...

FactoryDefault

I might take a set of those square switches off your hands if you're selling the extras.
Also what was the part number for the mouser cherry switches?
My Nava is seeing a lot of use so now I'm starting to think about a spares kit...

FactoryDefault

I've been using the clock input.
The 101 service manual says 2.5 V or higher for both clock and gate.
The Nava trig out is supposed to 5V but I haven't actually measured it.
If you can verify that your Nava trig out is actually 5V, then I would guess that your 101 clock input needs repair.

FactoryDefault

I have my trig out permanently connected to my 101 and it's been solid.
You have a scope to check trig voltage or another device with trig out to verify the 101 input is ok?

FactoryDefault

jvq wrote:I would rather buy a few parts I don't need than wait 4 days after every part.

Good point. I've placed too many mouser orders where the shipping cost more than the parts...

Glad you got the problem solved.

FactoryDefault

Might be able to save a little money by desoldering and testing components first. I fried my 7915 in a similar way. In was the only component harmed during the incident...

FactoryDefault

It works! The hardest part was de-soldering IC11. I used half a dip16 socket to put it back on the board, with pin 2 sticking out. I considered de-soldering VR5 to make it easier to remove the transistors but was able to remove solder from the accessible legs then do the rest from the other side of ...

Search found 23 matches

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